At the southern extremity of the Central Highlands is the city of Dalat. Originally built by the French colonists, Dalat still bears a passing resemblance to a French town, an impression that is diminishing as Vietnamese-style buildings proliferate.
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Dalat can be reached by air, but only from Ho Chi Minh City. However the drive from the south is quite satisfying, especially as you climb up through rubber, mulberry, coffee and tea plantations. The road from Dalat to Highway 1 and Nha Trang is also gratifying with plenty to see on way.
There are some good hotels, the crown going to the excellent Sofitel Dalat Palace, arguably one of Vietnam’s best, but there are very few restaurants serving anything other than Vietnamese food.
‘Discovered’ by Dr. Alexandre Yersin at the end of the 19th century, Dalat grew into a large hill station attracting French civil servants, administrators and military personnel seeking a refuge from the heat and humidity of the Mekong and the coastal plain.
Dalar marketLocated high in the mountains nearly 1500m above sea level, Dalat is now popular with Vietnamese visitors because it has a cool and equable climate usually remaining between 10º C and 20º C throughout the year. This ‘eternal spring’ is responsible for its increasing importance as a fruit and flower growing area. First class blooms, soft fruits and vegetables are grown for export and airlifted all over Asia.
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The ‘Romantic City’ or a Mecca for eccentrics?
You’ll come across the first label quite frequently, but don’t be misled. It’s equable temperatures make Dalat a popular choice for Vietnamese summer newly-weds who don’t want to consummate their union in a pool of sweat. If you are hoping to find peaceful seclusion with tucked-away bijou restaurants, the gentle refrains of violins or classic guitar, and secluded strolls by the light of the moon – forget it!
In reality, the most accurate description of Dalat’s ‘romantic’ features is ‘off the wall’. Forget about the much-touted, and mostly tacky and over-commercialised, attractions and look upon Dalat as an expedition in to the bizarre.
Dalat’s real attractions
Approached in a different way, Dalat has a lot to offer. Here’s a few examples, not in any particular order.
The Ugly Duckling
Most cities would yearn for a large water area with plenty of space as a central feature. Dalat has Xuan Huong, a splendid artificial lake with a seven kilometre perimeter. However, the local tourism authority has ‘enhanced’ it by the addition of a fleet of two person plastic ‘pedaloes’ shaped as huge swans. It’s an introduction the kitsch that is to come!
Welcome to wonderland.
The quintessence of counter-culture, Hang Nga’s ‘Crazy House’ is a truly memorable guest house if you don’t mind being uncomfortable. It defies description – seeing is believing!
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